Cruising the BVI: Day 4 - To Anegada

next ›

next ›

Click on the image to see a full size version of the photo.  Click on the first thumbnail to see a slideshow of all photos.

In the previous installment of the series of blog posts "Cruising the BVI: Day 3 - To Virgin Gorda" we described our third day in the BVI.  We left Marine Cay, visited the Baths on Virgin Gorda and made our way to the Bitter End Yacht Club.

Wednesday March 2, 2011 - We awoke to yet another beautiful day (what is it with this place?).  Then grabbed some breakfast and coffee.  It was time to prepare for the passage to Anegada.

I played with the FM radio to try to find a forecast since the VHF did not have marine weather.  The FM weather was pretty vague calling for chance of showers and moderate winds.  Fortunately we were going to be traveling with 'Eight is Enough' who did have real weather radio as well as a great crew.

Route to AnegadaToday we were to travel to Anegada.  Anegada, while 10 miles long, is only 28 feet high at its peak.  The Sunsail briefing warned of potentially missing it if your navigation is off.  So considering the previous day's routing choice, I studied up.  Reviewing the chart and cruising guide, we could see the anchorage is located on the south west corner of the island.  The entrance is a narrow dredged channel.  The anchorage itself is shallow with depths only ranging from 5 to 10 feet.

We followed Eight is Enough out of the North Sound.  Outside the Sound we raised sail and proceded on course. The crew of Eight is Enough motored further east as she raised sail.  Shortly thereafter we were distracted by a huge yacht that looked like something out of a James Bond movie.  So sometime during this period we lost visual contact with Eight is Enough.

We continued on with Jim at the helm.  We were pretty sure Eight is Enough was ahead and downwind.  After a while we received a radio call from Eight is Enough.  It was Dave calling to warned us of weather ahead.

We could see the rain coming in.  At first the rain was refreshing but as the wind picked up it was a little cool.  We put on our rain gear as Jim dealt expertly with the water and freshening breeze.  The downpour lasted around a half hour and after we were rewarded with a beautiful rainbow.

Shortly after, Mike called on the VHF so we could locate one another.  After I relayed our GPS coordinates he calculated they were about a mile off our aft port quarter.  We looked back and sure enough there they were!  Unfortunately, soon we were in the next rainstorm and lost them again however visibility not an issue and were able to remain under sail.

Unhappy with the ride during the first rain, we shortened sail.  In addition, after entering the weather we fired up the engine for additional safety.  This smoothed out the ride.

After drying off again, we could see Anegada but not Eight is Enough.  They could not be far behind or so we thought.  Maybe they were in front?

We sailed for a little while longer then prepared to enter the entrance channel to the Anegada mooring field, which took a while to find!  The provided chart was not much use.  The GPS chart, however was pretty good in this case.  The channel entrance was marked by the southwest-most buoy, which was unnumbered.  The trick is finding it.  (This was one of only two places where we saw navigation aids.  The other was Road Town harbor.)  The entire area surrounding the entrance is quite shallow.  Once the first buoy was found we used the US system which is in effect in the BVI: "red right returning".  The channel itself was also shallow.  In fact, Eight is Enough later reported their depth gauge reported zero on the way in!

We found the channel and made our way in slowly as the depth gauge read from 7 to 10 feet.  As we passed the last marker we spotted a mooring ball off to port and went for it.  This time we had difficulty grabbing it as I was focusing as much on the depth as our approach.  After the second pass, a good samaritan in an old dinghy handed us the mooring ball tail.  We powered down then Barry introduced himself and accepted our tip.  He then proceeded to expound on the great food at one of the restaurants and handed us its brochure.

As this was going on, Eight is Enough appeared and was approaching a mooring ball close by.  We let Barry know they were the generous rich ones and he went off to help them.

While relaxing after the day's sail I could see how a nearby catamaran had tied to the mooring ball tail.  It then finally occurred to us the best way to tie up.

Tying to a Mooring BallLesson 7 - The Mooring Ball: The mooring ball tail has an eye sufficient for about 4 to 5 half inch lines to pass.  This is also convenient to grab using the boat hook.  

Approach the mooring ball slowly from downwind, lining it up with one of the bow cleats.  Follow the bowman's directions and speed indications.  The bowman should grab the mooring ball tail and if possible immediately place it on the closest bow cleat.  This gives the bowman time to tie it off without having to worry about being dragged overboard.

To tie off properly requires two dock lines.  Tie the first dock line to the bow cleat opposite where the ball tail is temporarily hooked.  Pass this line around the bow and through the tail eye.  Then pass the line back around the bow and tie it to the same cleat over the other end of the line.  Pass the second dock line through the mooring ball tail eye.  Then holding at least one end of the dock line, release the tail.  Then tie both ends of the second dock line to the newly freed bow cleat.  Both dock lines should now have the same lengths to/from the mooring ball tail.

We touched base with Eight is Enough and followed their lead to meet at Potters by the Sea for lunch.  They are known for the lobster and came highly recommended by Greg.  We dinghied over and found they do not serve lunch, only dinner.  While waiting for everyone to arrive (Eight is Enough needed 2 passes to get everybody), it was decided to try "Plan B", check out Loblolly Bay and eat there.

Taxi TruckWe took at taxi-truck to Loblolly Bay and arranged to be there for 2 hours.  The taxi driver was dubious we would be done by then but promised to come back for us.

We went straight to the Big Bamboo restaurant and we able to get a table for 12 pretty quickly.  We ordered, and waited. And waited.  Then we asked and found out it would about an hour before our food would be ready (island time)!  So several of us explored the shops and beach area.

The beach itself was spectacular.  Since we originally planned to eat at Potters we had not come ready to swim and snorkel, something I regret.  Also I was surprised how hot the sun felt.  Only a minute or so walking without shade became very uncomfortable,

Finally our meal was ready.  The crew of Eight is Enough planned to eat dinner aboard so several ordered lobster for lunch.  We planned to eat dinner at Potters so ordered other items.  It was very good, especially considering the captive audience they had.  As we were finishing up, I saw the taxi driver, who waited patiently for those of us who were returning.  Jim and Liz decided to stay longer and enjoy the beach.  Dorothy and I returned in the taxi and made our reservations for Potters.

It turns out Potters requires you to order when you make your reservations.  Fortunately we all planned to have the same meal: lobster.

That evening the anchorage was packed.  Colorful cabin and deck lights of all sorts lit up the bay.  Music from shore and the party boats pulsated throughout the harbor.  As we boarded the dinghy for out trip back to Potters we noted the large cabin cruiser just ahead with the blue waterline lights.  This would be our guiding light for the return.

There are two seating areas at Potters.  Next to the bar (and loudspeakers) are tables on the sand.  A little away is a deck area adjacent to the dinghy dock.  We sat in the deck area to try to avoid both the sand and sand flies.  The meal at lived up to its hype. The drinks too!

Properly satiated and lubricated we started the dinghy and proceeded back to Fours Company.  Unfortunately now it was pitch dark in the anchorage except for the masthead lights and a surprising number of blue waterline lights.  Plus we could not remember if we had left the cabin lights on as with previous nights.  So we headed for the first set of blue waterline lights.  Nope, its a catamaran.  This went on a while but finally we spotted the welcome outline of the NSC burgee waving in the light breeze.  It seemed long but the harbor tour took less than an hour.

Lesson 8: Make your vessel unique to so it is easy to find in the dark.

As I went below I glanced up to make sure the masthead light was on.  Beyond the masthead I saw a spectactular moonless sky.  I let the others know and returned topside.  Previous days we were able to see a preview of the BVI stars but it was mostly obsured by clouds.  That night it was perfectly clear.

Sitting on the deck above the cabin I was treated to the wondrous light show that is the Milky Way when unobscured by stray city lights.  Looking up at the stunning beauty of this sight inevitably makes you feel small and insignificant but its these types of moments which makes small boat cruising so special.

Summary

I would have preferred to spend more time on Anegada if our itinerary would have allowed.  In fact it would be nice to have more time to explore each of our stopovers in more detail but I especially felt this way about Anegada.  It is a beautiful and unique place.

Next up: Jost Van Dyke.

Glenn